Archive for the ‘Metro’ Category

Let’s Eat!

Monday, March 30th, 2009
Lunch Anyone?

Lunch Anyone?

The Frères Costes have opened another trendy eatery in Paris, this time in the heart of the Left Bank. The Costes Saint-Germain follows the usual Costes formula: high design—this time by Monsieur Minimalist Christian Liaigre—and a monumental space—the old Bilboquet jazz club on the rue Saint-Benoit. This is where Juliette Greco wowed the beatniks in the 1950s and is on the ground floor of a government building on the place Saint-Germain-de-Près. They knocked down the wall between the two and created a sweeping, block-long space with loads of windows and natural light.

This being Costes, the menu is more or less the same as the group’s other dozen eateries in town (George, Café Marly, Avenue, Esplanade and the Hôtel Costes (( to name a few), which means classics with a modern spin and an expense account price (Chilean Sea Bass in spicy Thai sauce: 34 Euros). The shoestring frites are pretty fab, but honestly, the rest feels very chain-like. It’d be nice if the restaurants each had a distinctive cuisine to match its décor. In homage to both the Bilboquet and the arty history of the quartier latin, the Costes have sprinkled contemporary art—primarily sculpture—throughout the dark wood setting. They will also have live jazz in the evenings, starting at 10 p.m.